© Bath Refinishing Resource
Industry Standards
What are the “industry standards”
when it comes to refinishing my
bathtub?
Our National Refinishing Standards
The refinishing industry has been around since the
1960’s, however it still remains a mostly unregulated
service. The coatings and chemicals used in the
process are regulated, but the process itself is not.
This can and has led to many customers getting
dramatically different results.
There are also many different expectations from
customers about refinishing. Some people think
that the surface will be as good as a brand new
bathtub, while others expect the surface to look
spray painted. In an effort to educate consumers, we
have developed our own national standards for
refinishing. These standards are what we hold all of
the refinishers that we work with to, while also giving
our customers a clear level of expectation prior to
choosing our service.
PREPARATION
To achieve the best results possible for refinishing
there are several actions that need to be taken in
preparation. Prior to booking your job, you should
consider doing other larger or more difficult
remodeling tasks first. Things like replacing or
repairing tile above or around the tub. Painting the
room, or updating plumbing fixtures. All of these
tasks have a risk of potentially damaging the
bathtub. While we can do our refinishing before the
jobs are done, we will not be liable for any damages
to our surface that would result from that type of
work. We also need working temperature control in
the unit. If it is too cold, the coatings will not cure. If
the temperature is too hot, the coatings may flash
dry which leaves it very rough, plus the technician is
at risk of overheating. The ideal temperature is
around 70 degrees.
CLEANING
Most high quality coatings are done in specially
designed spray booths. These rooms have industrial
exhaust equipment that evacuates dust particles
and fumes. Unfortunately we do not have that
luxury when we are working in your home. So it is
vital that the room that we will be working in, is as
clean as you can make it. Cleaning should include
dusting/wiping down the walls. Vacuuming the
floor. As well as doing a thorough cleaning on the
surface that we are going to coat. Failure to do these
things could result in extra charges and a
contaminated surface that may require extra repairs
to correct. It is also not recommended to do
refinishing in a room/home that is under
construction. Even work being done in a distant part
of the house can lead to surface contamination
especially when heaters or air conditioners are
running.
CURING
Please note that it can take between 24 and 48
hours for the coatings to initially cure. Do not touch
the coatings during this time. The technician will
inform you of when it is safe to start using the
surface. The coatings also require a temperature
controlled room for curing. The temperature must
stay around 70 degrees fahrenheit, for the initial
curing period. If the temperature drops too low,
then it can halt the curing process.
After the curing time, please inspect the surface. It
is possible that some defects formed during the
curing. These defects could include runs or sags,
sharp bumps, dust contamination and more. Long
Term Curing time is 90 days. During the long term
curing extra care is needed. Please refer to the Care
and Maintenance document for details.
If there are any defects, please do not try to pick at
them. Simply call us and we will schedule a repair
date at the earliest opportunity. Defects such as
these, are considered warranty work and will be
covered under the warranty. However, if a defect is
a result of accidental damage, faulty plumbing or
dirty work environments, then additional charges
may apply.
FINAL RESULTS
Due to the many extenuating circumstances,
final results may vary. Below is our guideline for
final results. (Please Note: The job is considered
complete after the final coating has been
applied. Final payment is due at that time. Any
defects or repairs after the initial curing period
are considered warranty work and are not
grounds for delayed payment.)
Uniform Color: The coating should be a uniform
color throughout. If you see areas that look thin,
or that are showing a bit of the original color
please notify us for a repair. (Note: Shadows are
a common occurrence in bathrooms and
kitchens. If you suspect a color problem on your
new surface you may request an on site
inspection. If we determine that it is a shadow,
you will be charged a travel service fee.)
Surface Condition: It is common for minute dust
particles to settle on the surface during the
curing process. These particles are oftentimes
so small that you cannot see them with your
naked eye. But you can feel them, especially if
you gently brush your hand across the surface.
These particles will naturally rub off over the
course of the Long Term Curing period. You
have the option of having the technician return
for a buffing, though this would come with an
extra charge, unless we determine that it is a
warranty defect. (Note: Buffing of the surface
will partially degloss it. So you must decide if
you prefer a shiny surface that may have some
tiny bumps, or do you want a smooth surface
that is less shiny?)
Caulking: Depending on the technician's
preference, the item may be caulked before we
leave, or it may need to be caulked after the
initial curing. There are pros and cons to either
instance. Unless otherwise noted in your
paperwork, caulking is an additional fee and
should be completed after the initial curing
time. If you wish to save yourself some money,
and intend to do the caulking yourself. Please
note that you cannot apply tape to the surface
to aid you in the process.
Visible Defects: If you can see a run, bump, or
some other form of defect with your 1) naked
eye, 2) with normal lighting and 3) from 3 feet or
more from the surface, then it would be covered
under the warranty. If this is the case, we ask
that you take a few pictures of the defect, text
them to us and then call us to schedule a repair
appointment.
If the defect cannot be seen without altering
one or more of the above conditions, then it
likely would not be covered under the warranty.
(Note: We still encourage you to bring any
defects to our attention because there are times
that it may still be a warranty issue. But if it is
determined that it is not a warranty issue, then
additional charges may apply.)
PRIOR SURFACE TREATMENTS
In some cases there may have been products applied
to the item that could prevent our coatings from
curing or adhering properly. The most common
example is tile or grout sealant. A sealant goes on
clear and is next to impossible to know is present,
until you try to coat over it. Tile/grout sealant is
typically used on natural stone tile or on grout joints
wider than 1/8th inch. But we have seen sealants
being applied to bathtubs before too. Another
product that makes refinishing difficult is silicone. It
is common for silicone caulking to be used in the
seams where the tub meets the walls/floor. But there
have been times that it was used as a temporary
crack, rust or chip repair.
If you are aware of any sealants or other chemicals
being applied to the surface, you must inform us prior
to work starting. We will not be liable for any defects
in the coatings that may result in clear sealants,
improper use of silicones or any other chemicals that
may inhibit the curing of our refinishing products.